Friday, 13 April 2012
Sunday, 8 April 2012
Yesterday I was packing my bike with my kit in a pile about 10m behind me. When I turned back I saw that my tank bag was missing. It contained my camera, hence no photos, 2 mobile phones, Victorinox multi tool and a plethora of other things that I forgot to put in the police report. The couple that I had been riding with decided to go on and leave details of their location at the police station in the town we were heading for. After I eventually finished with the police I hit the road only about 30 minutes behind them.
About 2 hours down the road I have this vague recollection of a cow running diagonally across the road from left to right, me hitting it, flying through the air and then nothing. I awoke to hear an American voice saying do you speak English? This was Lacey, her and her boyfriend were overlanders who had been on the road for 2.5 years. They had arrived third on the scene after the Peruvian family who probably owned the cow and had removed my helmet. A big no no for motorcyclists involved in a crash. Another Peruvian guy had also pulled up. I was probably unconscious for 5 minutes or so. To cut a long story short the bike is at the farm of the family and will probably be stolen by the coppers who turned up. Lacey and Luis drove me all the way to Lima where a 'got my training from the back of a Corn Flake box' doctor diagnosed that I had separated my clavical from the shoulder. I could have come to that assessment from the X-ray.
I have no option to leave the bike where it is in the middle of the mountains, get a flight home tomorrow and get the NHS to look at my shoulder. I think my motorcycling days are over since from the state of the bike that has a missing front end and a lot of pannier damage I was very very very lucky. Perhaps I will convert a Mercedes van into a mobile overland home. There was no sign of the cow just a lot of fur on the road. I suspect it is in a lot of pain. Overlanders stick together one couple has offered me the spare bed in their room since there is no available room fo me.
Toodle pip until the next overland adventure.
Thursday, 5 April 2012
David, Eva and I left Huaraz at Crack o Sparrow and headed northish towards Yungay. This town had been completely devastated by the 1970 earthquake and was the start of the road to Laguna Chirancotcha a supposedly beautiful lake 34km away and high in the mountains. We had tried to ride there yesterday but had been beaten by the bike breaking severity of the road. The terra surface had been completely destroyed by tour buses that were also heading towards the lake. Our new plan involved leaving the bikes at a tourist restaurant and then catching a taxi to the lake. The drive up was stunning and surmounted the view of the lake which was ordinary and it proved difficult to take a photo without also snapping one of the dozens of tourists that started to arrive.
We think that we saw a cloud enshrouded Mt Alpamayo which is said to be the most beautiful mountain in the world and the symbol for Paramount Studios.
Tuesday, 3 April 2012
Nestled between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra, Huaraz has become a mecca for adventure seeking adrenalin junkies. Funnily I was going to continue up the coast but was drawn here.
Practically destroyed by an earthquake 30 or so years ago it is a fun, vibrant and pleasant city. It was also a stunning ride to get here and the weather alternated between very heavy showers, zero visibility as you passed through the clouds and bright sunshine all mingled with a bit of adrenalin as you frantically dodged the livestock that seem to have forgotten that grass does not grow on tarmac roads.
Lunch was taken at a fruit stall by the roadside where I tried chiteimoya, the green fruit center picture that had a sweet/succulent flesh and pacae, that looks a bit like beaten up runner beans on steroids. Not quite as nice but never the less interesting.
At Jo's place in Huaraz I pulled up at the same time as 2 South Africans who ride for 3 months and work for 3. Unfortunately they had left their Moto Guzzi in Lima for 3 months and it had been stripped of everything that was not bolted to the bike. Riding kit, spares, tools etc etc.
Peru is the land of hats. I must have seen 5 different types as I have transited through the various tribal regions.