From El Calafate we headed SW on the Ruta 40 (this time sealed) to cross back into Chile at Rio Grande. Unfortunately we had chosen a Saturday when Argentinians head south to do the equivilent of the 'booze cruise' to France. They all go to Punta Arenas in Chile. Also the southern part of Argentina is totally isolated and cannot be accessed by land without going through Chile first. The result was total pandamonium at the border.
After all of that we had to catch a ferry across the Straits of Magallen. Riding motorbikes we were sent straight to the front of the queue and skipped about 50 cars. Hooray for 2 wheels!
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